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S.O.S. (Support On Site)

We don't always have time to answer all your questions, although we certainly wish we did. When you have a question about one of our patterns, start here. Review these notes, check for errata, and view any of the videos that might be related.

The shop where you purchased your pattern is the very best place to go for additional help, especially if your question is a basic knitting question or if you are wondering about the use of a term. Even if you purchased your pattern on line, our on-line stockists also maintain full-service local yarn stores and should be able to answer your questions. If not, they may certainly contact us for assistance.

1) Before you begin, please check for corrections to the printed instructions.

2) Instructions are given for the smallest size with progressively larger sizes in parentheses. If only one number is given, it is for all sizes.

3) Selvedge stitches have been included to allow for seaming where required. Measurements shown in schematics are prior to seaming and finishing.

4) Attached I-cord: Start by picking up stitches along the edge to which the I-cord is to be attached. Break the yarn, and cast 2 stitches onto the right-hand needle. Slip these stitches onto the front end of the left-hand needle, such that the working yarn is 2 stitches in, next to the first edge stitch. Begin by knitting 1 stitch, pulling the working yarn across the back. The 2nd stitch is knit together with the first stitch in the edging, through the back loops. Replace 2 sts from right-hand needle to left-hand needle. Repeat for each row of I-cord, knitting stitch 2 together with its corresponding edge stitch, through the back loops. For a 3-st attached I-cord, cast on 3 sts, then knit the first 2 sts, knitting the 3rd st together with the edge st, through the back loops. Replace 3 sts to the left-hand needle.

5) BO means bind off.

6) CC means contrast color.

7) CO means cast on.

8) Garter stitch is produced by knitting every row (when knitting flat), or alternating knit with purl rounds (when knitting in the round).

9) I-cord is worked on 2 double-pointed needles. Cast on the specified number of sts. Do not turn work. Slide the stitches down such that the first stitch you will knit is at the opposite end of the stitches from the working yarn. Knit all the stitches, applying extra tension to the first stitch to pull the yarn across the back. Slide the stitches again, give the cord end a tug, pull the yarn across the back and knit the next row. Repeat this process until the cord is the desired length.

10) k means knit.

11) k2tog means knit 2 stitches together (a right-slanting decrease).

12) kfb means to knit in the front and the back of the same stitch (an increase).

13) Kitchener stitch: With the stitches to be grafted on two parallel, double-pointed needles, make sure that the working yarn is coming from the back needle. To start, take the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl and leave the stitch on the needle. Now, go through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit and leave this stitch on the needle. Keep the working yarn below the needles. You will now work two stitches on the front needle, followed by two stitches on the back needle, across the row, as follows: On the front needle, go through the first stitch as if to knit and drop it off the needle. Go through the second stitch as if to purl and leave it on the needle. Tighten the yarn. On the back needle, go through the first stitch as if to purl and drop it off the needle. Go through the second stitch as if to knit and leave it on the needle. Tighten the yarn. When there is only one stitch on each needle, go through the front stitch as if to knit and drop it off the needle. Go through the back stitch as if to purl and drop it off the needle. Pull the tail to the inside.

14) M1 means make one (an increase): Bring the tip of the left-hand needle under the strand between needles, from front to back. Knit through the back of the loop.

15) M1L (make one left slanting): Bring the tip of the left-hand needle under the strand between needles, from front to back. Knit through the back of the loop.

16) M1R (make one right slanting): Bring the tip of the left-hand needle under the strand between needles, from back to front. Knit this loop.

17) MC means main color.

18) p means purl.

19) p2sso means pass 2 slipped stitches over (see psso, below).

20) p2tog means purl two stitches together (a right-slanting decrease).

21) pfb means purl in the front and back of the stitch (an increase).

22) Pick up and knit stitches: Unless instructed otherwise, pick up and knit sts at a ratio of 1 st for each st in straight hem edges and back neck edge, 3 sts for every 4 sts along shaped edges, and 3 sts for every 4 rows along center fronts.

23) pm means place marker.

24) Provisional cast on: Start by making a slip knot loop on a crochet hook. (This loop does not become a stitch.) Now, holding the knitting needle in your left hand, and the crochet hook in your right hand, bring the yarn behind the needle. Bring the crochet hook in front of the needle and pick up the yarn. Pull a loop through the loop on the crochet hook. You have cast on one stitch. Take the yarn back behind the needle and repeat this process until you have the desired number of stitches cast on. Break the yarn and pull a large loop through the last loop on the crochet hook. You don't want to tie off, because this is the end from which you will unravel the chain to recapture stitches. When you are ready to recapture the live stitches at the cast on edge, gently pull out the chain, placing each stitch on the needle.

25) psso means pass slipped stitch over (lift it, right to left, over the stitch just worked).

26) rep means repeat.

27) RS means right side.

28) Seed stitch: First row: *k1, p1, repeat from *. All subsequent rows: knit the stitches that were knit in the row before and purl the stitches that were purled in the row before. This will look like you are knitting the stitches that have a "purl bump" at their base and purling the stitches that do not.

29) sl1 means slip one stitch (without twisting).

30) sl m means slip marker.

31) ssk means slip, slip, knit (a left-slanting decrease). Slip two stitches individually from left to right needle, as if to knit. Place tip of left needle through front loops of both slipped stitches and knit them together.

32) ssp means slip, slip purl (a left-slanting decrease). Slip two stitches individually from left to right needle, as if to knit. Place them back on the left-hand needle, without twisting. Purl them together through the back loops.

33) st / sts means stitch / stitches.

34) Stockinet stitch is produced by alternating knit and purl rows (when knitting flat), or knitting every round (when knitting in the round).

35) Three-needle bind-off: Move the shoulder stitches from their stitch holders to appropriately sized needles. Place the garment pieces right sides together. With a third needle, knit one stitch through the first stitch on both needles. Now repeat, knitting a second stitch through the second stitch on both needles. Pull the first stitch knit over the second stitch, as for a regular bind off, and continue across the row, until all stitches are bound off.

36) tbl means through the back loop(s).

37) Twisted cord: Start with a length of yarn that is 4 times the finished length desired. Knot the ends together. Holding the knot in one hand, slip a finger through the loop at the opposite end and begin twisting the loop. Add enough twist that, when relaxed, the cord begins to double back on itself. The more twist, the sturdier the cord will be. Fold the cord in half and let it twist back on itself. Tie a knot to secure the open end. Trim ends beyond the knot to fringe, if desired.

38) Wrapping a stitch: In shaping with short rows, it is necessary to wrap a stitch before turning to prevent a hole in the knitting where the row ended short. On a knit row, knit to the directed point in the row; then, bring the working yarn to the front of the work between the needles. Slip the next stitch (as if to purl) from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle. Take the working yarn to the back of the work between the needles. Finish by replacing the slipped and wrapped stitch back to the left-hand needle without twisting. On a purl row, purl to the directed point in the row; then, take the working yarn to the back of the work between the needles. Slip the next stitch (as if to purl) from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle. Bring the working yarn to the front of the work between the needles. Finish by replacing the slipped and wrapped stitch back to the left-hand needle without twisting. The wraps get worked together with their corresponding stitches when the short rows are completed.

39) WS means wrong side.

40) wyib (with yarn in back) Take the yarn to the back of the work, between the needles (away from you, regardless of which is the wrong size); follow the stitch instruction; bring the yarn back to the front of the work.

41) wyif (with yarn in front) Bring the yarn to the front of the work, between the needles (toward you, regardless of which is the right side); follow the stitch instruction; take the yarn to the back of the work.

42) yo means yarn over (an increase): For a yarn over between knit stitches, bring the yarn to the front of the work between the needle tips. Knit the next stitch by taking the yarn to the back, over the top of the right-hand needle. For a yarn over between purl stitches, take the yarn to the back of the work over the top of the right-hand needle. Bring the yarn to the front of the work under the right-hand needle and purl the next stitch.