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Errata
Sometimes there's an oops!
If your pattern has an older revision date than that noted below, or no revision date,
use the corrections given here. If your pattern revision date matches the date noted below,
it already contains the corrections.
Skating Hats and Mittens
(pattern revision date 02/28/12)
Her Hat, p. 5:
Cable pattern:
CBL1: Slip 2 sts onto cable needle; hold in back of work; k3, then k2 from cable needle.
CBL2: Slip 3 sts onto cable needle; hold in back of work; k2, then k3 from cable needle.
RS rows (between cable twists) work as directed to second marker, sl m, p1, k5, p1, sl m, work as directed to the end of the row.
WS rows work as directed to second marker, sl m, k1, p5, k1, sl m, work as directed to
the end of the row.
Row 10b work as directed to second marker, sl m, p1, CBL1, p1, sl m, work as directed to
the end of the row.
Row 18 work as directed to second marker, sl m, p1, CBL2, p1, sl m, work as directed to
the end of the row.
Beginning with row 10(a or b), every 8th row has a cable twist; 16 rows is one complete pattern repeat.
Directions:
...
Begin cable pattern with row 10a (subsequent repeats, use 10b):
Row 10a k2, PM, M1R, PM, p1, CBL1, p1, PM, M1L, PM, k2
Row 10b k2, sl m, M1R, k to marker, sl m, work cable pattern, sl m, k to marker, M1L, sl m, k2
Row 11 k2, sl m, p to marker, sl m, k1, p5, k1, sl m, p to marker, sl m, k2
Repeat rows 10b and 11...
Her Mitts, p. 6
Hand:
...
Discontinue cabling and decrease as follows:
Round 1 k2tog, p1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, p1, [k2tog] 10(11,13) times, k1: 17(18,20) sts
...
Monkey Business
(pattern revision date July 2011, 07/11)
Body (Worked in the round from bottom of body to neck.)
With MC, CO 6. Join in a round.
Round numbers are incorrect and should be as follows:
Round 1 kfb around: 12 sts
Round 2 knit
Round 3 kfb around: 24 sts
Rounds 4-5 knit
Round 6 *kfb, k1, rep from * around: 36 sts
Rounds 7-8 knit
Round 9 *kfb, k2, rep from * around: 48 sts
Rounds 10-16 knit
Round 17 *k2, ssk, k8, k2tog, k2, rep from * around: 42 sts
Rounds 18-24 knit
Round 25 *k2, ssk, k6, k2tog, k2, rep from * around: 36 sts
Rounds 26-30 knit
Round 31 *k2, ssk, k4, k2tog, k2, rep from * around: 30 sts
Rounds 32-36 knit
Round 37 *k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, rep from * around: 24 sts
Leaving sts on the needles, lightly stuff body.
Round 38 knit
Round 39 k2tog around: 12 sts
Cleo
(pattern revision date June 2011, 06/11)
Pattern, p. 2
Row 1 (WS) knit
Row 2 knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Cool Socks to Knit for Warm Weather
(pattern revision date May 2011, 05/11)
Garden Partie, Divide for foot, p. 4
Needle 1 now has 16 sts, needle 2 has 21, and needle 3 has 16 sts.
Rnd 5 (and all subsequent rounds of foot):
Switch to larger needles. Knit all the sts on needle 1. Work the 21 sts on needle 2 in
pattern. Knit all the sts on needle 3.
(The bottom and sides of the foot are worked in stockinet st for comfort.
The top-of-foot sts (needle 2) are worked in the pattern, beginning with rnd 5
and ending when the foot measures 3" less than desired finished length.
Chill Chaser
(pattern revision date April 2011)
Right Front, Neck shaping, p. 2
Neck shaping: At neck edge (RS), bind off 4(4,5,5) sts. Continue as written.
Hood, p. 3, following short rows:
Work even in stockinet st until piece measures 4-1/2"(5",5-1/2",5-1/2"), at center,
from beginning, ending ready to work a RS row. On the next row, k46(47,53,58),
place marker, k4(5,5,4), place marker, k46(47,53,58). Continue as written.
Chook and Mitts
(pattern revision date March 2011)
Abbreviations List
Omit C8F and kfb.
Chook
Omit all instances of C8F and replace with C8B.
Decrease rounds: Stitch count after Round 2 is 48 (56, 64).
Mitts
Omit all instances of C8F and replace with C8B.
Cable crossing rounds should be Rounds 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, 56, 64, 72, 80, 88; see below.
Cuff:
Round 8 should read: K2, p2, k2, p2, k2, sl m, p2, C8B, p2, sl m, *k2, p2, rep from * around.
Round 16 should read: K2, p2, k2, p2, k2, sl m, p2, C4B, C4F, p2, sl m, *k2, p2, rep from *around.
Round 21: Omit kfb at beginning of round.
Round 24 should read: K10, sl m, p2, C8B, p2, sl m, knit to end of round.
Thumb Gusset (left mitt):
Round 32 should read: K4 (3, 2), M1R, k7, M1L, k5 (6, 7), sl m, p2, C4B, C4F, p2, sl m, knit to end of round.
Round 33 should read: K18, sl m, p2, k8, p2, sl m, knit to end of round.
Round 40 should read: K22, sl m, p2, C8B, p2, sl m, knit to end of round.
Round 41: Work as written to first marker, work p2, k8, p2 between markers, work as written to end.
Round 44: Work as written to first marker, work p2, k8, p2 between markers, work as written to end.
Round 48: Work as written to first marker, work p2, C4B, C4F, p2 between markers, work as written to end.
Round 49 should read: K4 (3, 2), place 17 thumb sts on holder, M1L, k5 (6, 7), sl m, p2, k8, p2, sl m, knit to end of round.
Thumb Gusset (right mitt):
Round 32: Work as written to first marker, work p2, C4B, C4F, p2 between markers, work as written to end.
Round 33: Work as written to first marker, work p2, k8, p2 between markers, work as written to end.
Round 40: Work as written to first marker, work p2, C8B, p2 between markers, work as written to end.
Round 41: Work as written to first marker, work p2, k8, p2 between markers, work as written to end.
Round 44: Work as written to first marker, work p2, k8, p2 between markers, work as written to end.
Round 48: Work as written to first marker, work p2, C4B, C4F, p2 between markers, work as written to end.
Round 49 should read: K10, sl m, p2, k8, p2, sl m, k5 (6, 7), place 17 thumb sts on holder, M1R, knit to end of round.
Hand:
Work between markers as follows, working rest of round as written:
Rounds 51-55: p2, k8, p2
Round 56: p2, C8B, p2
Rounds 57-63: p2, k8, p2
Round 64: p2, C4B, C4F, p2
Rounds 65-71: p2, k8, p2
Round 72: p2, C8B, p2
Rounds 73-79: p2, k8, p2
Round 80: p2, C4B, C4F, p2
Rounds 81-87: p2, k8, p2
Round 88: p2, C8B, p2
Rounds 89-91: p2, k8, p2
Decrease Rounds:
Round 1: Beg with k2tog 5 times, not 3 times.
Round 2: Beg with k5, not k3.
Round 3: Beg with [k1, k2tog] 2 times, not once.
Round 4: Beg with k3, not k2.
Thumb:
Round 1 should read: K2tog around, ending k1 for size L: 9 (9, 10) sts.
Finishing:
"Seem" should be "seam".
Ted
(pattern revision date October 2010)
Optional ears, p. 2:
With larger needles and main color, cast on 4 (4, 6) sts. Kfb, knit to last st, kfb.
Purl. Repeat these 2 rows twice more (10 [10, 12] sts). Work even for 4 (4, 6) rows.
K1, k2tog 4 (4, 5 times), k1. Purl. Switch to contrast color, k1, kfb 4 (4, 5 times),
k1. Purl. Work even for 4( 4, 6) rows. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. Purl.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more 4 (4, 6 sts). Bind off. Fold ear up along color change.
"Stuff" with the yarn tails. Slip-stitch crochet, in main color, along outside edges to
join.
Wee Warmers
(pattern revision date October 2010)
View 3, p. 3:
Round 13: k5, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1, k1, psso, k3, rep from * to last 3 sts: k2tog, yo, k1
Feathers
(pattern revision date August 2010)
Peacock, finishing, p. 8:
Disregard the final two sentences, "Cut 3, 4" lengths of one of the tail feather colors.
Ford as one and attach as fringe at crown. Trim to 7/8."
In the prototype, the Peacock had a crown tuft that should have been eliminated in the
final version. The word "Ford" was meant to be "Fold."
Take Me To Your Leader
(pattern revision date June 2010)
Beta, p. 6:
Head: (continuing with sts on the needles)
Round 1 kfb around: 24 sts
Rounds 2 knit
Round 3 *kfb, k1, rep from * around: 36 sts
Rounds 4-5 knit
Round 6 *kfb, k2, rep from * around: 48 sts
Round 7-8 knit
Round 9 *kfb, k3, rep from * around: 60 sts
Rounds 10-13 knit
Round 14 *kfb, k4, rep from * around: 72 sts
Round 15 knit
Round 16 *k2tog, k4, rep from * around: 60 sts
Round 17 knit
Round 18 *k2tog, k3, rep from * around: 48 sts
Round 19 knit
Round 20 *k2tog, k2, rep from * around: 36 sts
Round 21 knit
Leaving sts on the needles, lightly stuff head.
Round 22 *k2tog, k1, rep from * around: 24 sts
Round 23 knit
Round 24 k2tog around: 12 sts
Round 25 knit
Round 26 k2tog around: 6 sts
Break off yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull up and tie off.
Baby Doll Wardrobe
(pattern revision date May 2010)
Ted, p. 6:
Left front: Beginning at underarm, RS, decrease 1 st at armhole edge on the next 2 RS
rows, as follows: k1, ssk, k to end. Work even on 17 sts until front measures 5-1/2"
from cast on edge, ending ready to work a WS row. Bind off 6 sts and p to end. Decrease
1 st at neck edge, every RS row, 3 times, as follows: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Join
remaining 8 sts to back shoulder with a three-needle bind-off.
Chook and Mitts
(pattern revision date Jan 2010)
Chook, sizes M and L:
For size S, go to decrease rounds
Rounds 51-57 *k8, p2, k4, p2, rep from * around
Round 58 *C8F, p2, k4, p2, rep from * around
For size M, go to decrease rounds
Rounds 59-65 *k8, p2, k4, p2, rep from * around
Round 66 *C8F, p2, k4, p2, rep from * around
For size L, go to decrease rounds
Skating Hats and Mittens
(corrections made in patterns printed after 12/2/09)
Needle size was incorrectly given as US size 6 (4.5 mm).
The correct needle size is
US size 6 (4.0 mm).
(corrections made in patterns printed after 10/12/09)
Her Hat, p.5:
Replace instructions beginning on p. 5 with the following:
Her Hat
Cable pattern
CBL1: Slip 2 sts onto cable needle; hold in back of work; k3, then k2 from cable needle.
CBL2: Slip 3 sts onto cable needle; hold in back of work; k2, then k3 from cable needle.
RS rows (between cable twists) work as directed to second marker, sl m, p1, k5, p1, sl m, work as
directed to the end of the row
WS rows work as directed to second marker, sl m, k1, p5, k1, sl m, work as directed to the end of the row
Row 10 work as directed to second marker, sl m, p1, CBL1, p1, sl m, work as directed to the end of the row.
Row 18 work as directed to second marker, sl m, p1, CBL2, p1, sl m, work as directed to the end of the row.
Beginning with row 10, every 8th row has a cable twist; 16 rows is one complete pattern repeat.
Directions
CO 4 sts
Work 100 rows of garter stitch (for chin tie).
Row 1 (WS) knit
Row 2 (RS) k2, M1R, k2: 5 sts
Row 3 k2, p1, k2
Row 4 k2, M1R, k1, M1L, k2: 7 sts
Row 5 k2, p3, k2
Row 6 k2, M1R, k3, M1L, k2: 9 sts
Row 7 k2, p5, k2
Row 8 k2, M1R, k5, M1L, k2: 11 sts
Row 9 k3, p5m k3
Begin cable pattern with row 10 here:
Row 10 k2, PM, M1R, PM, p1, CBL1, p1, PM, M1L, PM, k2
Row 11 k2, sl m, M1R, k to marker, sl m, work cable pattern, sl m, k to marker, M1L, sl m, k2
Row 12 k2, sl m, p to marker, sl m, k1, p5, k1, sl m, p to marker, sl m, k2
Repeat rows 11 and 12 until there are 9 sts between increase markers, continuing in established cable pattern
(alternating cable rows between CBL1 and CBL2).
Continue with line 3 on p. 6.
Harvest Jacket
Note: The correction below pertains only to the 2009 shop hop version of this pattern.
(corrections made in patterns printed after 10/07/09)
This correction applies only to size XL.
Divide for back and front:, p.2:
The instructions should read: Knit across first 38 (42, 46, 50, 58) sts; BO 12 (14, 16, 18,
17) sts; k to end. Purl across first 38 (42, 46, 50, 58) sts; BO 12 (14, 16, 18,
17) sts;
purl across sts for back. There will be 79 (87, 95, 103, 109) sts for the back and 38 (42,
46, 50, 58) sts for each front.
Simply Squared Vest
(corrections made in patterns printed after 02/10)
On page 3:
Armhole edging: (see note 9) -- should be (see note 10)
Front edge and neck edging: (see note 9) -- should be (see note 10)
(corrections made in patterns printed after 07/09)
Schematic, p.4:
The shoulder measurements given should read: 3.5"(3.5",3.5",4",4").
Darla
(corrections made in patterns printed after 01/09)
under Back, p.2:
At the end of the paragraph: Work across the first 15(17,16,19) sts in pattern,
and then slip them to a stitch holder or waste yarn. Bind off the center 34(34,36,36)
sts in ribbing pattern. Work across the last 15(17,16,19) sts in pattern,
and then slip them to a stitch holder or waste yarn.
18" Doll Sweaters, Collection Two
(corrections made in patterns printed after 01/09)
under Spanky, p.7:
Left back: From the WS, beginning at center back, work across the 22 sts
for left back in established pattern. Continue until armhole measures 2-1/2"
to match front. Bind off in ribbing.
Swinging the Blues
(corrections made in patterns printed after 09/08)
under Finishing, p.3:
Following "Weave in ends and block pieces."
insert:
Join fronts to back at shoulders with a 3-needle bind-off.
Prehistoric Pals
(corrections made in patterns printed after 07/08)
Tyrannosaurus rex, p.9:
Shape crown should read:
p7, p2tog, p1, turn
sl 1, k3, ssk, k1, turn
sl1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn
sl1, k5, ssk, k1 turn
sl1. p5, p2tog, turn
sl1, k4,ssk
(6 sts remain)
Garden Vest
(corrections made in patterns printed after 06/08)
Lattice pattern, p.2:
Row 15 of the pattern should read: k8, *LT, k6, rep from *, end k8
It's In The Bag
(corrections made in patterns printed after 05/08)
It's in the Texture, p.4:
Row 1 of section pattern should read: k4, p2, k8, p2, k35, p1, turn
Sweet Pea
(corrections made in patterns printed after 10/07)
Sacque, p.2:
Back shoulder extensions: Knit 10, bind off 24, knit to end (10 sts remain for each shoulder).
Shoulder extensions are worked separately, beginning with the left shoulder (yarn is
attached). Beginning with a purl row, work 9 rows in stockinet st. On each of the next 7
right side rows: k2tog, knit to end (3 sts remain). p2tog, p1, pull the first st over the
second. Break yarn and pull through remaining loop.
For right shoulder extension, work as for left, working the 7 decreases as follows: knit to
the last 2 sts, k2tog.
18" Doll Sweaters, Collection One
(corrections made in patterns printed after 04/08)
Camp Summer, p. 3:
Note: Use the smaller size needle for placket and hood trim.
Jersey Shore, p. 5:
Note: Use the smaller size needle for ribbing at hem, cuffs, and neckband.
(corrections made in patterns printed after 09/07)
Jersey Shore, p.5:
Pattern Stitch should be as follows:
Row 1 (RS): knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: k2, *p2, k2, rep from * across
Row 4: p2, *k2, p2, rep from * across
Repeat these 4 rows for pattern.
Wrap Me Up
(corrections made in patterns printed after 11/08)
Block 4, pp. 3-4:
Pattern stitch: half linen stitch
Row 1 (RS): *k1, sl1 wyif, rep from *, end k1
Row 2: purl
Row 3: k2, *sl1 wyif, k1, rep from *, end sl1 wyif, k2
Row 4: purl
(corrections made in patterns printed after 02/08)
Block 17, p. 6:
Row 3 of the pattern stitch should read as follows:
k21,[yo,ssk,k2tog,yo,k1] 7 times,yo,ssk,k2tog,yo,k21
(corrections made in patterns printed after 07/07)
Block 6, p.4:
Directions: Fold ruffle back over RS and pick up and knit 70 sts through the back of MC sts at
the base of ruffle. Continue picking up and knitting 12 sts part way up (as shown in schematic) along the side of
Block 5. Work in double moss stitch pattern for 42 rows. Break yarn, leaving a long tail,
and thread the sts onto the tail to hold for later.
Block 17, p. 6:
(correction made in patterns printed after 07/07)
Row 1: k2,PB,[k4,PB] 3 times, k3,[yo,ssk,k2tog,yo,k1] 7 times,yo,ssk,k2tog,yo,k3,PB,[k4,PB] 3 times,k2
(End the row k2, instead of k3 as printed.)
Special note: (p. 2)
Wrap Me Up can be worked in a single colorway of self-striping yarn, or multiple
colorways (like the Paint Box version pictured on the cover). If you use several colorways,
you can switch to a new colorway any time you are beginning a new block.
Safari Friends
(corrections made in patterns printed after 11/06)
Instructions for Punda milia, p. 7:
Rep from *: 24 sts.
Work 2 rounds even in MC. Break off CC. Leaving the sts on the needles, lightly stuff body.
With MC, k2tog 6 times, k12. Redistribute sts with the first 6 sts on the front needle and 12
sts on the back needle, with the working yarn on the right-hand end of the back needle when
the WS is facing. Break off MC.
Shape neck: With CC, work in stockinet stitch for 12 rows across back neck sts, slipping the first st of each row.
Annie
(corrections made in patterns printed after 08/06/06)
Instructions for sweater back:
Back: (worked back and forth over ½ the total stitches) Remove the end-of-round marker and
bind off 4(4,5,5) sts. Knit 61(65,69,75) sts, removing markers. Turn. Bind off (in purl)
4(4,5,5) sts and purl to the end of the row. There will be 57(61,64,70) sts to be worked for
the back of the sweater. Decrease 1 st each side, every RS row 4(4,4,5) times, as follows:
k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Continue in stockinet st until armhole measures
5"(5-1/2",6",6-1/2") from bind off rows. Work across first 10(12,13,14) sts, and then place
them on a stitch holder or waste yarn. Work across center 29(29,30,32) sts, and then place
them on a stitch holder or waste yarn. Work across remaining 10(12,13,14) sts, and then place
them on a stitch holder or waste yarn.
Shizuka
(corrections made in patterns printed after July 2006)
Right Front Instructions:
Shape shoulder: Work center front stitches, slip marker, k15 (18, 19, 19); wrap the next st and
turn. Work wrong side row. Work center front stitches, slip marker, k10 (13, 16, 16); wrap
the next st and turn. Work wrong side row. Work center front stitches, slip marker, knit to
end, knitting in wraps with their corresponding stitches. Work wrong side row. Work center
front stitches, slip marker, ssk, knit to end. Work wrong side row even. Work center front
stitches, slip marker, ssk, knit to end. Bind off 18 (21, 22, 22) stitches in purl.
Wee-One Welcome Set
(corrections made in patterns printed after July 2006)
Cap:
With smaller needles, cast on 66 sts. Work 12 rows in garter st. Continuing with smaller
needles, work 6 rows in k1/p1 ribbing. Switch to larger needles and work 31 rows in
stockinet st, beginning with a purl row. Decrease crown (over 4 rows):
(was originally published as work 30 rows)
Twipple Tweed Vest
(corrections made in patterns printed after March 2006)
Gauge: 16 sts and 28 rows = 4" (10cm) in pattern st on larger needles.
(was originally published as 18 sts and 28 rows)
Polar Baby Caps, Aviator (p. 3)
(corrections made in patterns printed after 12/23/2005)
Remove provisional cast on and place 96 (108, 120) sts on needles. On the first round,
k39 (42, 45) sts, bind off 18 (24, 30) sts, k39 (42, 45), knit across first k39 (42, 45) to
end. Work back and forth for remainder of hat, knitting the right side rows and purling the
wrong side rows. Purl one row. Work face-shaping rows as follows:
Row 1 (right side) ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 2 (wrong side) purl
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times. 70 (76, 82) sts remain, ending ready to work a right side row.
Knit across 30 sts, then place them on a stitch holder or waste yarn. Bind off 10 (16, 22)
sts. Knit across 30 stitches of left ear flap. Purl 1 row. Decrease 1 st at each side,
every right side row, 3 times. Place a stitch marker at center (12 stitches each side).
Shaping rows:
Row 1 (right side) ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 2 (wrong side) purl
Repeat shaping rows 3 times. 12 sts remain, ending ready to work a right side row: ssk,
knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. Bind off remaining 10 sts. Weave in ends. Repeat for left
earflap.
Beginning at center back, work a 3-st, attached I-cord (on-site demo) around bottom edge of
hat. Weave in ends and block.
Blossom
(corrections made in patterns printed after 10/26/2005)
Yardage: 525 (625, 735, 845) yds.
Additional notes:
9) Attached I-cord: (on-site demo) Start by picking up stitches along the edge
to which the I-cord is to be attached. Break the yarn, and cast 2 stitches onto the
right-hand needle. Slip these stitches onto the front end of the left-hand needle, such that
the working yarn is 2 stitches in, next to the first edge stitch. Begin by knitting 1 stitch,
pulling the working yarn across the back. The 2nd stitch
is knit together with the first stitch in the edging, through the back loops. Replace 2 sts
from right-hand needle to left-hand needle. Repeat for each row of I-cord, knitting stitch 2
together with its corresponding edge stitch, through the back loops. For a 3-st attached I-cord, knit the first 2 sts, then knit the 3rd st together with
the edge st, through the back loops. Replace 3 sts to the left-hand needle.
10) I-cord: (on-site demo) With double-point needles, cast on 2 sts. Instead of turning
the work to knit the first row, slide the stitches down such that the first stitch you will
knit is at the opposite end of the stitches from the working yarn. Pull the working yarn
across the back and knit two stitches. Slide the stitches again, give the cord end a tug, pull
the yarn across the back and knit two stitches. Add some tension for the first stitch, so the
working yarn is pulled really tightly across the back. Repeat this process until the cord is
the desired length. End by binding off.
Finishing (p. 3):
Under "Hem" picot edging is explained in note 7, not note 6.
Between "Hem" and "Neck and ties" add the following:
Sleeves: Sew shaped raglan edges and underarm bound off edges to sweater fronts and back.
Sew sleeve seam from underarm to cuff.
My Favorite Cardi-again (p.2)
(corrections made in patterns printed after 1/22/2005)
Back: pattern Row 4: k3, *p3, k2, repeat from *, end k1
Additional notes:
6) kfb means to knit in front and back of the same stitch (an
increase)
7) Picking up stitches for the collar: Pick up and knit stitches from
the wrong side of the neck edge, one stitch for each stitch across fronts
and back and one stitch for each two rows along curved neck edges of fronts.
Sweet Pea, Materials List (p.1)
(corrections made in patterns printed after 3/09/2004)
Yarn - 575 yds (515 m) of sport weight yarn. (Model is shown in Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, 5 balls.)
Baby weight yarn was originally specified, but options are not suitable.
Li'l Sunhats, Clownin' Around (p.6)
(corrections made in patterns printed after 8/15/2003)
Section pattern:
Row 1: kfb (knit in front and back of st), k38, kfb
Rows 2 and even numbered rows through 22: knit
Row 3: kfb, k40, kfb
Row 5: kfb, k42, kfb
Row 7: kfb, k44, kfb
Row 9: kfb, k46, kfb
Row 11: kfb, k48, kfb
Row 13: k2tog, k48, k2tog
Row 15: k2tog, k46, k2tog
Row 17: k2tog, k44, k2tog
Row 19: k2tog, k42, k2tog
Row 21: k2tog, k40, k2tog
Row 23: k2tog, k38, k2tog
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